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From the Amazon basin to the Caribbean, Colombia
is an exciting and underrated destination. The coffee needs no introduction
but the culture, from the wonder of pre-Columbian artefacts to the
works of contemporary painters and sculptors is well worth investigating.
Colombia's
rich artistic background began 3,000 years ago with the sophisticated,
sacred gold-work of the indigenous Indians. The incredible legacy
of their craft, 33,000 pieces on display so far, are housed in Bogotá's
fascinating Gold Museum.
The capital's colonial old town, known as the 'Candelaria',
is characterized by cobbled streets, terracotta tiled roofs, wrought
iron work and carved wooden balconies. Inhabited by artists, writers
and musicians, the area is home to restaurants, discotheques, two
universities, and the lively Biblioteca Angel Arango. The latter,
an impressive modern library offers art exhibits, two museums, an
auditorium for chamber music and a bank of computers for public
use. Paradoxically, two streets away, outside the nearby church
of San Ignacio, a queue of devout believers clutch empty plastic
containers as they wait patiently to collect curative holy water.
An early evening trip by cable car to the top of
Monserrate, a peak rising to 3,210 meters behind the city, offers
spectacular views. Earnest pilgrims walk to the convent at the top
where many miracles are reputed to have occurred. Take a day trip
to the vaulted cathedral deep in the salt mine at Zipaquira outside
Bogotá or to Lake Guatavita - Colombia's El Dorado where
the Muisca Indians adorned their chief with gold dust who then took
a bath in the lake, offering the gold to the gods.
Cartegna on the Carribean coast is a gem. The walled
old town is chock full of churches, monasteries, plazas and mansions
with overhanging balconies and patios. The facades of the terracotta-roofed
houses radiate colour. Painted in hot pinks, purples, blues and
yellows they are embellished with carved wooden window grilles,
balconies overflowing with bougainvillaea and hibiscus. In the streets
men push handtrucks brimming with mangoes and women carry baskets
of fruit on their heads. The beaches are of a cafe latte hue but
the isles of Rosario, a short boat ride away, are ideal desert islands
with white sands and active coral reefs. The Carribean island of
Providencia is also Colombian and that is a dream hideaway of sun
lovers. For jungle adventure Leticia in the far south on the Amazon
is mysterious and wild.
Positives
Few Tourists. Great culture. Lively, hospitable people. Terrific
night-clubs.
Negatives
Never hail a taxi from the street. Only take taxis booked by the
hotel. Leave jewellery at home. Don't stray off the beaten track.
Avoid guerrilla-held areas in the South. Keep tabs on no-go areas
with local tourist agency.
Activities
View pre-Colombian artefacts at the legendary Gold Museum. Visit
the Colombian El Dorado, Lake Guatavita. See the salt cathedral
in the mines at Zipaquira. Relax in the sunny city of Cartagena.
Laze on the beaches of the Rosario islands.
Best time to Travel
All year round.
Food
Excellent. Traditional Colombian and
International.
Shopping
Coffee, copies of pre-Colombian artefacts, leather, art, emeralds.
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