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The desert state of Rajasthan is one of the
most colourful in India. The richly adorned palaces, forts and temples
are palpable testaments to the romantic history of the Rajputs and
Mughals. Rajasthan is one of the driest regions of India, which
has helped preserve many of its historic treasures. People lived
here 100,000 years ago and the Aravalli Hills are some of the oldest
mountain in the world.
 Most
tourists choose the 'Golden Triangle' of Delhi, Agra (Sacred
Sites) and Jaipur, a compact journey which delivers the Taj
Mahal, the palace of Fatehpur Sikri and the Amber Fort with its
irresistible ascent by elephant. However, I would not like anyone
to miss Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Kumbalgarh and Udaipur. A car and driver
is by far the best way to travel but the railways provide option
for the hardy and adventurous.
Bikaner
In this desert town Junagarh Fort is one of the finest and best
preserved in Junagarh with medieval architecture and wonderful interior
decoration. Bikaner apparently has a good market (which I missed)
and is home to a factory churning out our favourite Indian 'nibbles'.
Also see the red sandstone Lalgarh Palace and museum built by an
Englishman in 1902.
Don't miss the 'rat' temple to Karni Mater. It
is small but compelling shrine with huge platters of milk left for
the white rats that run about like tame mice. An excursion to the
only camel farm in India might be interesting. It was closed the
day I was there.
If you are not staying at the beautiful Gajner Palace on the manmade
lake, at least go for lunch and hope to see nilgai, blackbuck, wild
boar etc which inhabit the Gajner National Park.
Jaisalmer
 It
is hard to find words to describe this yellow sandstone desert fort
standing proud on a hill in the midst of the desert plane. More
than any other fort in Rajasthan, it evoked, for me, the warring,
romantic, medeival past. Once inside the walled city you will feel
lucky that you have seen it before it crumbles to the dust of the
desert, but from the outside it looks almost brand new, particularly
in the early morning or evening light. Be sure to get a taxi driver
to take you to the perfect look out point to watch the sunrise or
sunset. There are also some beautiful mansions with carved facades
and inner courtyards, but essentially there is nothing much to do
in Jaisalmer except marvel at its existence.
If you take a camel safari make sure your camels
are clean with sweet smelling saddles and accoutrements. Insist
on travelling off the beaten track. And itıs not necessary to visit
the Grand Dune, along with every other tourist in the vicinity.
Apart from the size of the dune itself you might as well be on Blackpool
beach with camels instead of donkeys.
Kumbhalgarh
 Drive
through the Aravalli Hills to the famous Jain temples at Ranakpur
and on to the fort at Kumbalgarh. The ramparts are second only to
the Great Wall of China in length. It is a fascinating, if forbidding
place. It was only taken once when the water in the ponds was poisoned
by enemy Mughals. The view over the walls are wonderful and there
are some interesting temples within the walls. There is an adjacent
wildlife sanctuary that is said to contain bear, panther, wolves
and hyenas as well as nilgai, deer, boar, jungle cats and jackals.
The nearby Aohdi Hotel is one of my favourite spots in the world.
Built of local stone, echoing the architecture of the fort, it is
small, comfortable and unique. Floating in the pool listening to
the monkeys call as the sun sinks below the hills is a favourite
memory. A half-day's drive takes you on to Udaipur.
Udaipur
Often called the Venice of Asia, because of its extensive lake
system, this is a delightful city with the largest palace in Rajasthan.
It has, to date, never been conquered and perhaps because of this
there is a genuine lightness of spirit here, even the palace architecture
seems more delicate. The Mewar royal family has one of the oldest
lineages in the world and the present Maharana is a benevolent ruler
who spends much of his time on trusts and charities helping the
people of Udaipur. Stay in the lap of luxury at the Shiw Nivas Palace
Hotel and look out over the lake where the Summer Palace (the legendary
but kitsch Lake Palace Hotel) seems to float on the water and watch
the light change throughout the day. You won't  want
to move off your balcony. If you do, make a pilgrimage to the Shiva
temple at Eklingji. The ritual cleansing of the statue of Shiva
before puja is the real thing.
Positives
The sights. The colours. The light (you'll take the best photographs
ever). The Gods. The people.
Negatives
The water - be vigilant about drinking and brushing teeth with mineral
water. If you want to avoid a 'jippy' tummy ask for your food without
chillies 'not hot'. Send it back if it's too spicy. Avoid fish and
meat if possible. Plumbing. Toilets on the train! Don't go on a
camel safari unless you can find a driver who will take you off
the beaten track. The 'yes' word. Everyone says yes to your every
request. Know when it means 'we haven't got a clue'.
Activities
Sightseeing, Jeep/Horse and Camel Safaris
Best time to travel
October to March
Clothing
Light natural clothing. Sweaters/shawl for cold nights. (Local clothing
is perfect).
Food
Avoid all tummy troubles by eating plenty of fruit (wash & peel
yourself) bananas and yoghurt. Stick to rice with vegetables and
paneer (chunky pieces of cottage cheese) or chicken. Avoid fish,
meat and chillies. Drink lime soda without ice (fresh limes and
soda water), fizzy lemonade, Kingfisher Beer and mineral water (checking
that the cap is sealed). Take plenty of water with you.
Shopping
Precious stones, block printed cotton and silk bedspreads, leather,
clothes and antiques.
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