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Cornwall is pretty, wild, Celtic and mysterious.
This tiny isthmus in the South West of England is a treasure trove
of enticing estuaries, hidden valleys, welcoming pubs, invigorating
coastal paths, wild moors and fantastic headlands - a romantic maritime
country still the preserve of trading ships, fisherman and yachtsmen.
The
gentle estuary of Fowey rivals Mediterranean vistas, the winding
narrow streets of the town clinging to a steep hillside, crowned
with crooked pines. Tugs accompany huge tankers past bobbing yachts
and dinghies to collect precious locally-mined china clay to carry
back to Norway, Russia and beyond because Fowey is still a working
port. At the very top of the town the relatively new Fowey Hall
Hotel sits in five acres of walled gardens with spectacular views
of the estuary and the English channel.
Across the river at Bodinnick sits The Old Ferry
Inn which has been looking after travellers since the 1600's. A
delightful hostelry providing pretty rooms with sensational views
this is one of the best budget options in Cornwall. Excellent food
and drink is enjoyed by locals and tourists alike in the old fashioned
bar. And it was in this timy hamlet that Daphne du Maurier fell
in love with this estuary and made her home across the river at
the tiny hamlet of Bodinnick where she began her long career.
The Helford river is a favourite with yachtsmen
from around the world and the pubs on this river boast wine lists
to rival any London restaurant cellar. The tiny village of Helford
straddles a tidal creek and cars must be left behind. Walking past
picturesque cottages on reaches the 18th century Shipwrights Arms,
set on the river bank. Terraced gardens drop down to the waters
edge and the talk at the bar is of Rolls Royce engines and stocks
and shares.
Overlooking the Helford estuary Nansidwell
Hotel is the perfect country house retreat with log fires and pretty
chintzes. Created by charming host, Jamie Robinson, he has also
found a superlative chef in Anthony Allcott who presents truly excellent
food, much of it organic and locally farmed. Most of the food served
in the restaurant is organic and locally farmed. (Winner of the
1996 Good Food Guide Country Restaurant.)
Cornwall boasts a multitude of coastal walks, standing
stones, ravishing gardens and folklore as well as being a magnet
for creative talent. From Thomas Hardy to John le Carre writers
have been living, visiting, or setting their novels here. As for
artists the famous Newlyn School at Penzance continues to foster
sought after British Artists such as John Miller and Kurt Jackson.
Donšt miss the beautiful Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden
at St Ives.
Positives
The air, the views, the walks, old churches, standing stones, winding
lanes. (see also Sacred Sites)
Negatives
School holidays and bank holiday weekends.
Activities
Walking, yachting, pubs
Best time to travel
Spring and Autumn.
Clothing
Light wool and cottons. Rainwear with hood. Walking shoes. Bathing
suit for when the sun shines.
Food
Fish pies, seafood, cornish pasties. Drink Cornish ale and cider.
Shopping
Art, Arts and Crafts, Books, Cider
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