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Temples and Shrines of India
 The
subcontinent of India cannot help but evoke faith. Religion is part
of the daily fabric of life with prayer or puja practised daily
to a myriad of deities. But since there are probably more temples
than bakeries in India what follows is simply an anecdotal account
of my own experiences at one or two sacred places.
Note: 80%
of Indians are Hindu there are 110 million Muslims, 20 million
Christians, 18 milllion Sikhs, 6 million Buddhists not to mention
Jains, Zoroastrians etc. There are seven holy rivers, seven holy
places and four holy abodes in Hinduism and at least twenty important
Buddhist sites.
www.indiantemples.com
Karni Mater
Not far from Bikaner is a curious seventeenth century temple dedicated
to an incarnation of Durga
called Karniji or Karni Mater. Known as the 'Rat Temple', hundreds
of rats run about the temple feeding at massive silver platters
of milk, piles of rice and sweetmeats. It all seems delightfully
Beatrix Potter and spotting a white rat brings particularly good
luck. Bring socks to protect your feet and be prepared for a something
of a smell in the narrower corridors. It was only the second Indian
temple I had visited and I was not yet used to the strangeness of
it all with payments to priests and guady effigies. I tried to think
respectful thoughts as I filed past Karni Mater's statue but couldn't
help feeling rather sick and somewhat claustrophobic.
However, in my dreams that night the goddess, as
a child, accompanied by Krishna
as a child, came and played with me in the gardens of the Lalgarh
Palace! We laughed and danced together as children do. I had been
visited by the Gods! So I took Karni Mater to heart and she and
her ratty attendants became my allies and guardians. I called on
them several times on my solo trip round Rajasthan, particularly
the night I Iay awake in the desert. Fearful of snakes, spiders
and scorpions, I visualised the Goddess and her rat sentries outside
my tent, ready to do battle with anything that moved. And as for
Krishna, his image sits by my bed and never fails to raise my spirits.
Kumbhalgarh
 The
walls of the fort at Kumbalgarh
rather chillingly evoke the warring spirit of the bygone Rajputs
and Mughals. Second only in length to the great wall of China they
form a stolid defence to this imposing fort. Set high in the Aravalli
hills (some of the oldest in the world), the views are unsurpasssed
and stretch all the way to the desert fastness of Jodhpur.
It is said that these ramparts, dating back to 1465,
kept falling down. The ruling Maharaja was advised to make a human
sacrifice to strenghthen their foundations so he selflessly offered
himself and work restarted where his severed head came to a halt.
Another sacrifice involved the nurse to the baby Udaih Singh who
was heir to the throne. She substituted her own son for the prince
when his life was threatened. And of course there had been many
hard fought battles here.
There are 365 temples within the walls and a palace
to visit. But it was a simple shrine near the entrance gates that
made the greatest impression on me, striking a welcome note of peace
after so many tales of blood and sacrifice. As I climbed the steps
in the late afternoon sunlight, I was grateful to find the ever
approachable elephant god - the great God Ganesha
breaker of obstacles.
Eklingji Temple, Nr Udaipur
Between Kumbhalgarh and Udaipur
lies a white marble temple dedicated to Shiva,
family deity of the ruling family of Udaipur, the Mewars where the
god is strikingly depicted with four faces in rich, dark marble.
It was at this temple that I was lucky enough to witness classical
rituals and devotions to the God. The priests first cleansing themselves,
cleansing the statue of the God with milk, and then decorating it
with fresh flowers, before any prayers can begin. It is a lengthy
ritual and is repeated several times a day in atmosphere of silent
reverence.
The Taj Mahal, Agra
 The
Taj Mahal needs no introduction. But it must be included here because
its beauty cannot be dimmed by accolades. There can be no disappointment
in seeing this wonder of the world. It must be seen at sunrise and
sunset. It must be viewed from near and far, from the river bank
and from across the river. Clichés do not exist. There is
nothing hackneyed. One cannot resist having a photograph on the
bench where Princess Diana sat without her Prince. It simply takes
ones breath away - a breathaking wonder that cannot be missed.
NB The town itself is flea bitten, dusty and dirty.
Not to mention that there are more potholes in Agra than any other
place I visited. The only place I was ''ripped off' and the only
town in which I was bitten by bugs. Go first class all the way,
stay at the very best hotels and travel by taxi or chauffeur driven
limousine.
Positives
The temples. The Gods. The People. The colours. The light (you'll
take the best photographs ever). The Gods. The people.
Negatives
The water - be vigilant about drinking and brushing teeth with mineral
water. If you want to avoid a 'jippy' tummy ask for your food without
chillies 'not hot'. Send it back if it's too spicy. Avoid fish and
meat if possible. Plumbing. Toilets on the train! Don't go on a
camel safari unless you can find a driver who will take you off
the beaten track. The 'yes' word. Everyone says yes to your every
request. Know when it means 'we haven't got a clue'.
Activities
Sightseeing, Jeep/Horse and Camel Safaris.
Best time to travel
October to March
Clothing
 Light
natural clothing. Sweaters/shawl for cold nights. (Local clothing
is perfect).
Food
Avoid all tummy troubles by eating plenty of fruit (wash & peel
yourself) bananas and yoghurt. Stick to rice with vegetables and
paneer (chunky pieces of cottage cheese) or chicken. Avoid fish,
meat and chillies. Drink lime soda without ice (fresh limes and
soda water), fizzy lemonade, Kingfisher Beer and mineral water (checking
that the cap is sealed). Take plenty of water with you.
Shopping
Statues and paintings of Gods. Precious stones, block printed cotton
and silk bedspreads, leather, clothes and antiques.
Jewellry at the at the Hotel
Ganeshi Lall & Son, Hotel Mughal Sheraton. Ask for Vishnu or Vikash
Lall and get a discount from Paradise Now.
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