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Portugal is renwoned for its sunny days, good
beaches and fine sherry. It is also rich in history and culture.
Like Spain the Celts settled about 700 BC and the country was invaded
by numerous peoples including the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and
Visigoths. And as in Spain the Moorish occupation brought sophisticated
architecture and agricultural methods.
 In
the 1100's the famous Christian 'warrior-monks', the Knights Templars,
were given refuge in Portugal in exchange for helping the Portuguese
to get rid of the Moors.
The Templars began constructing their first Portuguese
stronghold in 1160 at Tomar in the district of Templarios. The spectacular
fortified castle still stands today containing a fascinating eight-sided
chapel. It is a classic example of sacred geometry and Templar architecture
which is thought to have been modelled on the 'Dome of the Rock'
in Jerusalem.
In the 1300's The Templars became the Order of Christ
and the great Convent of Christ was built within the fort. It was
here that there most famous Master, Prince Henry the Navigator,
planned the seafaring expeditions that opened new trade routes and
led to the formation of the Portuguese colonies in India, The Far
East, Brazil and Africa.
The Castle of Tomar
Tomar is situated in an area of hills, valleys and woods cris-crossed
with rivers and streams and populated with idyllic villages, old
slate houses and fairy tale castles.
The Castle itself sits on top of a hill above the
town of Tomar. Entering through its gates one is swept back in time
and the sight of the extraordinary octagonal chapel, dating back
to the 12th century is quite surprising.
However, restorers have been at work in the chapel
for many years and tourists were not allowed inside. Miraculously
I managed to persaude the director of the Castle complex to let
me in. And together we climbed the scaffolding adorning the main
altar area (where it is said that the Knights were initiated on
horseback). This was particularly exciting because aside from the
mystical fabric of the building, much of the Templars original stone
carving has been overlain with decoration more suited to Catholic
traditions. But as we climbed up the ladders I saw some of the original
magical signs and sigils carved into the stonework. Unfortunately
the director who had just taken on the job seemed to have little
interest in the original Templars which is a great shame as many
of the tourists I spoke to had, like me, travelled to Portugal especially
to visit this Templar site. (I heard somehwere that Hitler sent
Goering to the chapel to look for mystical works or perhaps for
the Ark of the Convenant itself.)
A walkway has been built all around the castle walls
and makes for a delightful tour with lovely views. The convent is
also spectacular and it is wise to set aside at least half a day
to enjoy this castle to the full.
 Almourol
About an hour's drive from Tomar on a tiny island in the midst of
the river Tagus is the fairy tale Templar castle of Almourol. On
the bank of the river in a ramshackle hut sits a boatman ready to
take tourists across the water. I found him tinkering with his outboard
motor and paid him a small fee to pole me across. He left to wander
about alone but omitted to unlock the padlock of the massive gates.
After much shouting and gesticulating he reluctantly returned to
let me in. In the meantime I tried to summon up Knights and battles
in my imagination but was not on that day particularly inspired.
The castle is extremely attractive from the outside
but inside it is a shell with nothing to see. However brand new
wooden stairways lead one to a wonderful view of the surrounding
landscape. I also looked down on the motorboat, engine now in perfect
working order with two tourists aboard getting a boatride around
the island. But since I had borrowed the Mayor's car and driver
I had no time to muck about in a boat on the Tagus and had to speed
back to town so that the Mayor could attend his function.
Fatima
While I am not a Roman Catholic I had received many signs and portents
indicating that I should visit Fatima while I was planning my trip
to Tomar. First a leaflet advertising an Indian take-away restaurant
called Fatima fell through the letterbox. That afternoon I saw the
word Fatima in a shop window. Then I noticed it on the map of Portugal
in the same region as Tomar. And then another Fatima restaurant
leaflet arrived. Clearly I was going to Fatima. All I remembered
hearing was that the Virgin Mary had appeared to some children at
Fatima.
For some reason each time I visit Portugal I find
myself involved in some kind of motoring mishap. So on this trip
I had decided to travel primarily by train. However, there is a
direct bus service from Tomar to Fatima so accordingly I took the
bus.
We arrived at a dusty stop, the bus driver was rude
to me and I had to push my way off the bus past an array of old
crones dressed in black. Not an auspicious beginning. I limped to
the nearby taxi rank (my knee had given way negotiating the steep
hill down from Tomar castle) and found that the taxi driver only
had a vague idea of where I was headed. A small farmhouse outside
the main town. We try to call ahead and only get the fax machine.
It was at least twenty minutes out of town and there was no one
at home. Plan B - a tour of the outlying Fatima sights.
There was no one about as we walked up the path
toward the first statue of the Virgin. As I stepped nearer I felt
as if I was crossing into a realm of delicate peace. The sun was
gently setting and rays of sunlight played through the rustling
tree on the white marble. Goose bumps tingled on my body as a surge
of energy coursed through my veins. I looked up at the sunlight
and it changed, dissembling into expanding clouds of blue. I closed
my eyes and prayed.
 We
walked in silence up the simple stone path between the olive groves,
to where the Angel appeared to the children the first and third
time. Another beautiful statue situated by a rock in the hillside
with a wonderful view across to the village. Then a drive to the
village for the final statue, white marble again was silhouetted
agains a perfect clear blue sky. Here we met the great niece of
Lucy, who first saw the Virgin Mary.
There was still no one at my farmhouse so I had
the taxi driver drop me at the O Truâo restaurant in the village.
Celebrities from rock stars to Nancy Reagan have eaten here on there
way through Fatima. Finally I contacted my hostess who comes to
collect me. But first there is a fiesta in the village. Large bonfires
made from the branches of sharp smelling tree. The aroma from the
fires will keep away evil spirits for the rest of the year. There
is a band, dancing, fireorks and stalls selling traditional sweetmeats.
So I missed the late night candle light procession
in the main square of the town. But I felt that I had experienced
the true nature of Fatima without the priestly trappings. Although
I later found out that there had been a special blessing to hundreds
of leather jacketed bikers.
Finally, I get to my room in the clean, spruce farmhouse.
It is run by a young woman who inherited the small farm from her
parents. Her brother is planning to open a restaurant in the adjoining
barn. A quite remarkable day.
Positives
The sights, the weather, the wine, the port and some of the fascinating
food. The fados (haunting songs originated by homesick sailors),
the Solares (converted estates and farmhouses turned into comfortable
and sometimes elegant bed and breakfasts) and if you like that sort
of thing the astonishing bullfights (watched by me on television).
Negatives
Some of the food which has such a different flavour and approach
from Northern food. Some Portuguese drivers. The language is hard
to pick up and understand.
Activities
Sightseeing, walking, beach activities etc.
Best time to travel
April to October
Clothing
Spring/Summer wear. Sweaters/shawl for cold nights.
Food
Sardines, seafood, salt cod, cabbage and potato soup! Drink local
wines and ports.
Shopping
Decorated tiles and pottery. Three colours of Port.
Restaurants
O Truão
Boleiros, Fatima
Tel +351 049 52 15 42
Fax +351 049 52 11 95
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are some books and videos to aid you in your travel quests.
Portuguese Fish Stew 
Tomar
Fatima
Cascais